RECIPES

Pecan cakes began showing up in American cookbooks in the 1880s (pecan pies made their appearance shortly thereafter), using coarsely or finely chopped nuts. In many instances, families picked the pecan or hickory nuts free from wild trees in nearby woods, distilled their own whiskey, and sometimes even forewent the imported raisins, constituting a relatively inexpensive treat.

In Kentucky, whiskey cake became a standard Christmas and New Year's Day treat, alongside cold eggnog and hot Wassail, when on both occasions many families hold an open house for family and friends. It is also commonplace on Thanksgiving and for the Kentucky Derby (first Saturday in May). Some families ate a fresh pecan cake for Thanksgiving, then wrapped the others in bourbon-soaked cheesecloth and let them age till Christmas and New Year's. (Excerpt from American Cakes: Kentucky Bourbon Cake, by author Gil Marks).

Kentucky Bourbon Cake (recipe courtesy of www.toriavey.com)

  • 5 cups seedless dark raisins (24 ounces/680 grams)
  • 1 cup candied pineapple or citron (5.25 ounces/150 grams)
  • 2 cups good quality bourbon (16 ounces/450 grams)
  • 4 cups coarsely chopped pecans (16 ounces/500 grams)
  • $ 1/2 $ cup all-purpose flour, sifted (2 ounces/60 grams)
  • 4 cups all-purpose flour (17 ounces/480 grams)
  • 2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg (1 whole nutmeg) (or 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, 1 teaspoon grated nutmeg, and 1 teaspoon ground cloves)
  • 1 tsp double-acting baking powder
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 1 1/2 cups unsalted butter, softened (65 to 67°F) (3 sticks/12 ounces/340 grams)
  • 2 cups granulated sugar (14 ounces/400 grams)
  • 1 cup packed light brown sugar (7.5 ounces/210 grams)
  • 6 large egg yolks (7 tablespoons/4 ounces/115 grams)
  • 2 tsp vanilla extract
  • 6 tbsp grated orange zest (optional)
  • 6 large egg whites (3/4 cup/6 ounces/180 grams)

You will also need: One 10-inch tube cake, two 9-inch rounds, or four 9- by 5-inch loaves, large mixing bowls, sifter, hand mixer, roasting pan or large baking pan.

In a large bowl or jar, combine the raisins and pineapple. Add the bourbon, cover, and let soak for at least 8 hours or, for a more intense flavor, up to 48 hours. Drain the fruit, reserving 1 cup bourbon. Place the fruit and pecans in a large bowl, add the ½ cup flour, and toss to coat and separate any clumps.

Position a rack in the center of the oven. Place a roasting pan or large baking pan on the lower rack of the oven and add 1-inch of boiling water. Preheat the oven to 275circF. Grease one 10- by 4-inch (16-cup) tube pan, two 9-inch springform pans or 8-inch (8-cup) tube pans, or four 1-pound coffee